Blumarine Resort 2024

Courtesy of Blumarine

Nicola Brognano’s work seems to move in waves: one day his Blumarine collections reach the land of femme-fatale seductiveness, the next dives deep into Mermaidcore and a gothic aesthetic, only to stretch again to dock on the rocky shores of rawness, as he has done recently.

For resort, his creative tide went out to the more feminine, pink-hued world he seemed to have left behind and was filled with jersey minidresses, ruffled knit frocks and stretchy separates printed with Blumarine’s signature rose symbol. The collection didn’t feel a complete step back, though, as Brognano’s more recent style incursions left a trace via utilitarian inflections, denim additions — here worked with a romantic spin with big bows — and an overall sense of a mature, self-confident attitude compared to the girly ways of his Blumarine woman when he first started.

Newsy elements included tulle bustier minidresses covered in laser-cut floral patterns or crafted from leather for a sleeker appeal. Lingerie references also came through in the laced inserts in body-hugging tops and pants as well as tailoring Brognano, which included fitted blazer jackets that evoked corsetry with garters via cutouts and dangling buckles. 

Subtler but effective in conveying the sensual vibe were satin pieces, including a mustard shirt and matching pants that shone in their simple and fluid design, punctuated by rose-shaped metal accessories. These also appeared on Brognano’s version of a Little Black Dress, which was worn over leggings, further elongating the silhouette.

“I wouldn’t label this as Y2K any longer. I was among the first [to relaunch it] and I believe its moment is a little bit behind us,” Brognano said looking at his lineup. But it’s undeniable that his work is still surfing the trend.